Skateparks are getting built faster these days than an Audi A4, but what if there are nowhere to be found in your town? You can lobby the city council, sit in meetings all night, and hope that if they do decide to build a lumpy cement structure it doesn’t get shut down for failure to comply with the pad rule. So instead of sitting around 7-11 talking about how busted your spots are, do something about it and start building your own skatepark.
Thanks to our friends at Powell Skateboards who supplied the ramp plans, we’re going to show you how to build a 4′ wide, 3 1/2′ tall quarterpipe with 7′ trannys. When you finish building the ramp, write a story, shoot some photos of your homies ripping it up, and email them to Lance@twsnet.comor snail mail to:
Lance Dalgart – Transworld Magazine
353 Airport Rd.
Oceanside, CA 02054
The best story with photos wins a complete powell skateboard. So get your saftety gear together and start building.
Want To Print Out The Diagrams?
Tools Needed :
Materials Needed :
1 -Sheet 4′ x 8′ x 3/4″ plywood
2 -Sheet 4′ x 8′ x 3/8″ plywood
1 -Sheet masonite (Optional)
10 – Pieces 2″ x 4″ x 8 wood (approx)
1 – Piece 2 x 6
1 – Box 16 penny nails
1 – Box 1 5/8″ Screws
1 – Bottle of wood glue
Appropriate Safety Gear
Step 1 : This step involves cutting the transitions to the ramp. Lay the 8′ x 4′ x 3/4″ piece of plywood flat. We will do a mellow transition. Measure to 7′, and fix a nail into a scrap piece of wood or something else that is flat and won’t move. For a tighter transition, make the measurement shorter. Hook the nail through the end of the tape measure. (see Figure 1.) Cut a notch out of a pencil and insert it at seven feet. (see Figure 2.) Now draw the transition. Now do the other transition on the other side.
Step 2 : Start with nailing a 2 x 6 at the top. It should be flush with the top of the ramp, and should be cut to match the curve of the transition. Measure and cut the 2″ x 4″s to 48 1/2 (to fit snug in the 4″ width.) (To make the ramp 8′ wide, use 2″ x 6″s instead of 2″ x 4″s.) Nail them up to the edge, about 8″ apart from each other. Nail the second from the last 2″ x 4″ flat to the ground. Cut the proportion of it sticking above the transition and use it as the very last piece of support. Nail that last support to a 46 1/2″ wide piece of plywood(see detail.)
Step 3 : Nail a 2 x 4 to the back top, and a 2 x 4 to the bottom to stabalize the back. Using scrap plywood pieces, cut 2″ x 3″ pieces. Glue and screw these support blocks to the inside of the ramp. They support the 2×4′s because the nails aren’t enough.
Step 4 : Screw down the 1st plywood piece. To make sure you are hitting the 2×4′s, you can use some string with chalk on it to snap a line along the top of the ply. Do 5 screws per 2 x 4, spacing evenly. Now screw the 2nd piece. Sand the bottom of the ply where it meets the ground, so you don’t have a lip sticking up. For a smooth surface, follow the same steps and add a piece of masonite. Don’t forget to countersink screws.
Step 5 : The best way to attach the coping is to have two tabs (three if the ramp is 8′) welded to the end of the 2″ inner diameter piece of galvonized steel (won’t rust) pipe. Then drill a whole into the top 2″ x 6″ and screw the coping down (see detail.) There are two ways which are easier, and still work well. The first is drill 3 holes in the steel. Screw the coping into the 2″ x 6″. The second way is to wrap plummers tape through the coping. Then nail it secure to the sides. In all three cases, you want the coping to be held ssnug by the plywood and frame, and stick out 1/4″ from the top and skate surface.
Step 6 : Screw a piece of ply to the top so you have a deck on the quarter pipe. Grab your friends, camera, and session..
For more information on ramp plans wrtite: Captain E.O’s Ramp Plans, 30 S. La Patera Ln., Santa Barbara, CA 93117